A Cozy Risotto Party For The New Year

Ten years ago, I drove upstate with my friends to go apple picking. We roasted the apples alongside root vegetables and showered it all with fresh dill, and I made a big pot of risotto for everyone.

A Cozy Risotto Party For The New Year

After dinner, we sat on the dock by a lake, drinking red wine out of Solo cups and watching the sun go down.

A Cozy Risotto Party For The New Year

The unabashed idleness of that evening -- of being surrounded by simple, straightforward food and, most importantly, friends -- is still the only kind of party I want to attend.

A Cozy Risotto Party For The New Year

If I've learned anything from my years of watching Nigella Lawson on television, it is that one stellar main course and one proper dessert can sometimes feel much more complete, much more elegant, than a procession of dishes that make you regret hosting in the first place.

A Cozy Risotto Party For The New Year

Risotto is not as hard as people make it out to be, but it is still risotto -- it will require attention. That you need to stir it constantly, however, is a myth.

A Cozy Risotto Party For The New Year

"Stir frequently, but not all the time," Italian British food writer Anna Del Conte advises in her recipe for risotto with nettles from her memoir of the same name.

A Cozy Risotto Party For The New Year

Chestnuts fried in olive oil taste like soft, meaty nuggets of holiday cheer when stirred into creamy rice. A big pot of risotto is always a good time, especially when it's the centerpiece of a DIY toppings bar.

Chestnut Risotto

Yield: 6 to 8 servings Total time: 1 1/2 hours For the toppings and broth: 2 cups thinly sliced celery plus leaves (from 3 large stalks) 1/4 cup rice vinegar Pinch of granulated sugar

Chestnut Risotto

Coarse kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 1/2 pounds cremini mushrooms Extra-virgin olive oil 2 large red onions (1 1/2 pounds)

Chestnut Risotto

dried or fresh bay leaves For the risotto: Extra-virgin olive oil 4 shallots, finely chopped 2 celery stalks, finely chopped 10 ounces roasted and peeled chestnuts, coarsely chopped

Chestnut Risotto

Salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 cups carnaroli or arborio rice 1/2 cup shiro (white) miso 1/4 cup cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces 1 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (3 ounces)

Chestnut Risotto

1 cup sour cream (8 ounces), for serving 1 bunch fresh dill, leaves and tender stems coarsely chopped, for serving

Chestnut Risotto

Prepare the roasted vegetable toppings: Position a rack in the center of the oven and another below it. Heat the oven to 425 degrees.

Chestnut Risotto

Make the risotto: In a large Dutch oven, add enough olive oil to generously coat the bottom. Heat the oil over medium. Add the shallots, celery and chestnuts, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are soft but not brown, 7 to 9 minutes.

Chestnut Risotto

Add more olive oil if the pot looks dry. Add the rice, and stir continuously until each grain is coated in the fat and looks shiny and translucent at the edges, about 1 minute.

Chestnut Risotto

Pour in 1 cup of the simmering stock, and stir vigorously until the rice has absorbed all the liquid. Add another cup of stock, and stir occasionally until the rice has absorbed that stock.

Chestnut Risotto

Continue like this, adding a cup of stock at a time and stirring just enough to make sure the rice doesn't stick to the bottom of the pot (every 3 to 5 minutes).

Chestnut Risotto

When you're out of the stock, continue with the boiling water, cooking until the rice grains are tender but maintain defined edges. This entire process will take 20 to 25 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and cover.

Chestnut Risotto

In a bowl, stir 1/4 cup of boiling water with the miso until smooth. Add this miso mixture, the butter and cheese to the risotto, and stir until incorporated.

Chestnut Risotto

Serve the risotto immediately, with the roasted mushrooms and onions, quick-pickled celery, sour cream and dill in separate bowls with serving spoons so that guests can top their risotto themselves.

Chestnut Risotto

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