How To Make The Perfect Chocolate Roulade – Recipe

The first mention of chocolate roulade in the British Newspaper Archive comes in 1976, but references peak in the late 1990s, when they also seemed to pop up at every special occasion I attended as a greedy teenager, often accompanied by an equally modish fruit coulis.

How To Make The Perfect Chocolate Roulade – Recipe

As if to reinforce the old-school nature of the task, recipes recommended to me by schoolfriends’ mothers include such all-time greats as Delia Smith, Lady Claire Macdonald, Mary Berry, the late Joyce Molyneux and the Leiths Baking Bible, all of which I pass on to you in the spirit of seasonal generosity.

The Cake

Note that making such a roulade is a good way to free up egg yolks for custard, which is always welcome, but if you’d prefer not to be stuck with leftover yolks, you can buy egg whites in cartons at larger supermarkets.

The Cake

Both Berry and Leiths use melted chocolate in their batters, while Eastwood and Coady go for cocoa powder (Molyneaux writes in The Carved Angel Cookery Book that, “many years ago, I used melted chocolate in the sponge mixture for the chocolate roulade and very good it was, too.

The Chocolate

But I now use cocoa instead, which I think is even better, giving it a bittersweet taste”

The Chocolate

The simplest option is Berry’s whipped cream, though my testers prefer Leiths’ slightly sweetened version. Consider the cream a blank canvas, however – I try whisking some ginger wine into one batch and orange zest into another.

The Filling

Alternatively, double down on the chocolate element with Molyneux’s extremely rich chocolate mousse, or Coady’s intense water ganache, which can also be flavoured with tea, coffee or indeed “cardamom, orange flower water, a drop of essential oil or some bits of fruit or some booze”.

The Filling

Prep 10 min Cook 1 hr Chill 2 hr+ Serves 8-10

Perfect Chocolate Roulade

For the meringue 50g cocoa powder, plus extra for dusting 1 tsp mixed spice (optional) 50g dark chocolate or chocolate chips (optional)

Perfect Chocolate Roulade

180g egg whites (ie, from 5 large eggs or 6 small ones) A pinch of salt ¼ tsp cream of tartar, or ½ tsp neutral vinegar or lemon juice 300g caster sugar

Perfect Chocolate Roulade

For the filling 250ml double cream 200g sweetened chestnut puree (or use plain puree with icing sugar beaten in to taste) A handful of fruit of your choice – I used cherries in brandy

Perfect Chocolate Roulade

Heat the oven to 160C (140C fan)/325F/gas 3, and line a shallow, roughly 22cm x 30cm oven tray with greaseproof paper.

Perfect Chocolate Roulade

Sift the cocoa and mixed spice, if using, into a bowl and set aside. Chop the chocolate into chips, if necessary.

Perfect Chocolate Roulade

Put the egg whites in a large bowl or food mixer with the salt and cream of tartar, whisk to soft peaks, then gradually whisk in the sugar until the meringue mix is thick and glossy and falls in ribbons off the whisk.

Perfect Chocolate Roulade

Add the cocoa and most of the chocolate chips, then fold in until well combined, taking care not to knock out too much air.

Perfect Chocolate Roulade

Spoon the meringue on to the lined tray in a single layer and gently smooth the top, to level it out, while keeping in as much air as possible.

Perfect Chocolate Roulade

Scatter the remaining chocolate all over the top, then bake for 30-40 minutes, until the meringue is dry to the touch on top but still squidgy beneath. Remove and leave to cool on the tray. Once the meringue is cool, start the filling.

Perfect Chocolate Roulade

Beat the cream until it’s billowing and soft, then fold in the chestnut puree and taste – it shouldn’t be too sweet, because it will be paired with the meringue, but adjust if need be.

Perfect Chocolate Roulade

Put a large sheet of clingfilm (you could also use greaseproof paper or a tea towel, but I find that clingfilm is easiest here) on a work surface and dust all over with cocoa powder.

Perfect Chocolate Roulade

Carefully turn the meringue out on to it, with the long sides parallel to the long sides of the clingfilm, then turn it around so that one of the short sides is facing you. Score a shallow cut across the width of the meringue, about 2cm away from the end closest to you.

Perfect Chocolate Roulade

Spread the cream all over the top of the meringue, then scatter over the fruit, if using, and put a line of fruit roughly where you scored the cut: this will be the centre of the roulade later.

Perfect Chocolate Roulade

Using the clingfilm to help you, tuck the closest end of the meringue over the line of fruit, then roll the whole thing up as tightly as possible, finishing with the seam underneath. The roulade should be completely encased in clingfilm, and can now be refrigerated until ready to serve, and ideally for at least two hours.

Perfect Chocolate Roulade

Transfer the roulade seam side down on to a platter, unwrap carefully, dust with more cocoa powder and serve.

Perfect Chocolate Roulade

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Perfect Chocolate Roulade

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Perfect Chocolate Roulade

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